Bisou Cocktail

Like many of my fellows in the industry, the 2010/2011 World Class competition has inspired creativity and initiative unlike any competition before it. Three state heats across different categories culminating in a top-ten final in Sydney in June has ignited 12-months of interest and intrigue in the competition and pushed all of us onto a higher level of professionalism befitting this noble trade and the products we represent in the competitions.

Starting with the sangrita ritual round and moving on to a gin and vodka seasonal cocktail round, the competition enters its final stage – Gentleman's Cocktail. In this round we are challenged to use Talisker 10yo single malt, Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve blended Scotch, or Ron Zacapa Centenario 23yo as the centrepiece in the cocktail. This guarantees excitement among the bartending community, especially given the other stipulation for this round – our cocktails must be a twist on a pre-prohibition classic. In other words, the drink will likely be stirred down without juice and only modified by other spirits, liqueurs, fortified wines, syrups and bitters. As the final round, this is bound to be the most exciting and followed. Up for grabs are four final spots in the final, as well as a trip overseas for the most consistent performer over the three rounds.

A drink that has captured my imagination in the lead up to this round is the Bijou (Fr. Jewel), created by Harry Johnson in New York in 1900. An equal-parts mix of gin, Italian vermouth and Green Chartreuse with orange bitters, it is an intensely aromatic mix with a velvety mouthfeel and shimmering off-pink colour.

Whilst working at Sling Lounge with Adam Brewer and Martin Lange we had a regular clientele, mostly female, who requested smoky whisky in original cocktails every night. Stumbling across the Pete's Word from Death & Co. which replaces gin in The Last Word with smoky scotch such as Lagavulin or Talisker, we applied this switch to similar sour classics such as a 20^th Century Cocktail, and with that great equaliser, Campari, in a Smoky Negroni.

So to try the Bijou with Talisker, then. Mixed up in replicated proportions the drink is sweet and heavy, even using a lighter style red vermouth, so after a few weeks of subconscious mixology a compromise was reached which didn't undermine the heritage of the original drink. Replacing the Italian vermouth with a dry french style and then adding a splash of Rosso Antico seemed to be the winning combination. Lightening up the fortified wine influence allows the Talisker to stand up and shine. Using Noilly Prat also lightens the colour and renders this cocktail pleasant to look at – translucent blush – further keeping the ties with this cocktail's heritage.

The finishing touch though, was yet to come.

Sourcing a small 2.5l barrel thanks to Nathan at Black Pearl, I set about preparing it to age my Talisker-Bijou. A good clean and soak with filtered water followed by a weeks' seasoning with vermouth and “Piglet” was ready for action. Made from French oak and still exuding a lovely buttery chardonnay aroma, I held high hopes for the influence she would have upon this cocktail.

The criteria for this round calls for a “Gentleman's” cocktail, so I wanted to create a drink that was sharp yet approachable in appearance and with a deep and complex flavour. The red hue of the cocktail impresses a sense of tenderness, and the aroma and flavour are multi-layered, featuring natural herbal bitterness and the wisdom of age's tannic length in combination with the malty and chocolate-orange succulence of it's origins. A well-rounded character.

Ageing cocktails in barrels and bottles has become quite an exciting trend in the international bartending community over the past two years, and as an accessible adjunct to a bartender's kit of tricks, I encourage everyone to try it, for use in the bar, or as a hobby at home. This was certainly something I enjoyed and am still enjoying now.

Time in the Barrel.

On barreling day, I mixed the cocktail once to be sure of the ratios I wanted, tasted the barrel-aged water and vermouths, and after checking my hair set up the camera and the rest is history:

What happened on the dining room table over the next three weeks was amazing.

The first three days, no noticeable change occurred, but then one morning I crept into the house at 7am and was greeted not by the small dog, which was sleeping, but by the warming aroma of oak and spirits. Scottish angels glided towards me and embraced me as I stood astonished. The interplay had begun in earnest.

The cocktail in the first week was not affected by the oak too much – there is too much flavour in those spirits to be immediately influenced – but the flavours began to settle and smooth out in earnest by day 6.

On day 10, and worried that the plan was not working, I noticed that the cocktail began to take on a serious lemon flavour, so the Noilly Prat was opening up, and I just hoped that the rest of it would follow quickly afterwards.

Day 12 and the lemon turned into orange, and a hint of oak shone through. It was actually tasting pretty good at this point, but I had had a taste of what Piglet would bring, and was determined to get as much out of it as I could.

Day 17 and things were heating up. Literally we were having warm days, and at the critical time for a timber cask so small, everything started to happen quickly. I had a day of big milk chocolate prominence, and that mellowed out the next day, and I knew I had to be quick in the bottling. Eventually, on day 20, it was time for harvest. And oh the glory to retrieve those precious sweet litres of liquid!

A quick and bizzare filtration later and the cocktail was in the bottles, awaiting service.

So finally,

Why the name Bisou?

Obviously as a reference to the original cocktail and the heritage of this one. But there are many ways to look at this one. Time in the barrel led me to many other distractions while always keeping an eye on this project. And so it led me to realise that when a gentleman is removed from his lady, he will always keep her in mind, and indulge in no more than a kiss – Bisou - in her absence.  

Hairy Canary Martini

This martini recipe was an entry into the second heat of the Australian World Class competion for 2011 - Seasonal Cocktail round featuring Tanqueray 10 and Ketel 1.

The Canary Islands have been a popular summer holiday destination for the past century. This Martini takes inspiration from the summer ritual of visiting this subtropical locale, and uses local ingredients to create a sophisticated Martini based on Tanqueray 10 gin. All of the ingredients chosen have been carefully selected for their flavour profile and summer availabilty and also their traditional roles in Canary Island folk medicine.

The Canary Islands get their name from the latin root canis meaning dog, for when the islands were first discovered they were overrun with many ferocious wild dogs. We've all been bitten by a metaphorical dog on evenings of overconsumption, and this martini provides a healthy kick for it's drinker, allowing him to take a few hairs back.

The ingredients chosen include Manzanilla sherry. Manzanilla is so named for it's similar taste to Chamomile tea, and is the ideal partner to Tanqueray 10 for this reason. It adds a dryness and complementary flavour to the gin. Chamomile is a summer flower with relaxing constituents.

The use of coconut water lends a slight playfulness to the flavour profile, it is only subtle in the mix but when discerned, is enjoyable for it's familiarity and tropical touch. The main property that the coconut water brings is a slight saltiness. This is not a brininess, but a potassium saltiness. It is a liquid full of electrolytes, and is strangely thirst quenching even in tiny doses. Coconut has been used in the Canary Islands to heal burns and as a nutritional supplement for generations.

Nasturtium leaves flourish in summertime, and add a bitterness and astringent freshness to this martini. Nasturtium is known for it's antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties and these are essential in any “Hair of the Dog” cocktail.

The sweet nectar of the nasturtium plant gives a pleasant and subtle hint of what is to come in the rest of the drink.

The result is a classic martini, restyled to deliver a sophisticated beach-side reminiscence to the consumer. Satisfying the senses and quenching the thirst, the Hairy Canary is the quintessential taste of Tanqueray 10 at summertime.

"Hairy Canary Martini" 55ml Tanqueray 10. 20ml La Goya Manzanilla 20ml Coconut Water Dash of Nasturtium Bitters Method, Glassware & Garnish Add all ingredients to a chilled mixing glass, stir, and strain into a coupette glass. Finish with a zest of lemon, discard, and serve the drink alongside a Nasturtium flower. The nectar from the flower is sucked first, and the drink is then sipped slowly.

Sangrita Ritual

After a couple of weeks of hard work doing laps around Brisbane on my trusty steed Muriel, one would think it's time to celebrate with a few drinks.  However, it's a Monday, many people are in Sydney for Barshow, and I'm inclined to recap on the past few weeks and the month ahead before a planned move interstate.

The laps around Brisbane have been in preparation for my entry for the World Class Sangrita Ritual. It's been coordinated alongside Marco's as part of a joint promotion for Canvas and to help both of our causes. Basically it's been all over Facebook, and everyone has learnt the beauty of the word "Empiricism"

Here's the pitch:

“A Little Blood for a Silver Peace”

Ingredients:

Jose Cuervo Platino, served chilled in vintage sherry glasses (to combat the heat of Brisbane);

Stumptown Guatemala El Injerto Bourbon Coffee, brewed to order using a Syphon Brewer, courtesy of a cross-promotion with Cup Coffee Roasters;

‘Sangre de Remontel’ bespoke choc-orange-chilli macaron courtesy of a cross-promotion with Monsieur Macaron of Brisbane.

Background:

This Ritual takes its name from an old spaghetti-western movie, and references the life of Mexican President and warrior Santa Anna, who lost a leg fighting the French in the ‘Pastry War’ of the 1830s.

After a decade of discord in the new Mexican Republic, a French Patisserie chef in Mexico City cried for assistance from Paris in seeking reparations for damages to his property that were dealt by militants under the control of Santa Anna.

The French government’s demands were not met and they quickly invaded, destroying the Mexican Navy and occupying Mexico’s major port at Veracruz.

Santa Anna had been happily retired at his nearby estate, passing his days with locally grown coffee and mezcal, when he returned without mandate to lead forces against the French. Santa Anna lost a leg in this battle, which led to his fresh rise to power in Mexico. The battle was a catalyst for peace between the two nations, and we celebrate that now, combining the No. 1  tequila, bespoke macarons, and single-estate coffee.

The Ritual:

The centrepiece of the ritual is the Jose Cuervo Platino. Bright stonefruit flavours, vanilla sweetness, and earthy notes characterise this exceptionally smooth tequila. It is served slightly chilled to combat the high ambient temperatures in Brisbane and to contrast with the coffee. This tequila is super smooth and delicate, and really deserves  the ultra-premium label. The challenge from here is to find delicate and desirable accompaniments to do such a wonderful product justice.

The coffee we’ve matched with the Platino is Guatemalan Finca El Injerto Bourbon prepared by Cup Coffee Roasters locally in West End. Floral and acidic at the start, with an amaretto and berry midpalate and sweet cocoa finish, it is prepared spectacularly in an evaporation-method brewer. The coffee syphon functions by allowing us to brew our coffee precisely in the top chamber before creating a vacuum in the bottom chamber to filter it off for service. Using a light-medium roast  and a course grind, we can capture the essence of this single-origin coffee, selected to pair with both the nutty, citrus-sweet macaron, and our delicate tequila protagonist. This truly is accessible luxury, for only a few dollars per cup.

The macaron as we see it today is a bespoke creation for “A Little Blood for a Silver Peace”.  Created in collaboration with Monsieur Macaron in a local specialty patisserie, our crisp-shelled delicacy has a gorgeous pastel hue with a hint of chilli spice, and a Grand Marnier and chocolate ganache filling. This is an ancient patisserie treat, and has been famous in its present form since the early 20thC. Macarons are currently desirable globally with the recent openings of boutiques in Tokyo, New York, and throughout Europe from celebrated Parisian patisserie chefs. The flavours of orange and chilli give us a reminiscence of the original sangrita, but we are keeping the flavours strictly sweet in the form of the macaron.

Grand Marnier, chocolate, the macaron itself, all of these are ritually consumed together with coffee, right around the world. Coffee itself is available to any flavour profile desired thanks to the delicate craft of roasters, and as a daily indulgence is enjoyed more than any other beverage around the world, though only rarely is it so carefully selected and handled. We are truly dealing with the top end of the coffee world right here.

As for our centrepiece, the Platino, it has been well documented within the bartending community that tequila pairs exceptionally with orange, chocolate, chilli and coffee. At this level of sophistication, only carefully selected products will match with such a carefully produced spirit. So to do this particular delicacy justice, and to completely enjoy the combination of  flavours, along with the accompanying empirical nuances that you will enjoy - the temperature and mouthfeel of the coffee, and the gorgeous dual texture of the macaron - indulge yourself in “A Little Blood for a Silver Peace”. Imagine yourself as Santa Anna, brokering peace with a missing leg, presiding over your sunny hacienda, lord of your domain, with time and space to enjoy life’s three great luxuries.

Introduction

The Ritual.

Buddha:
The thought manifests as the word. The word manifests as the deed. The deed develops into habit. And the habit hardens into character. So watch the thought and its ways with care. And let it spring from love, born out of concern for all beings.


Every day you wake in a certain way and you find sleep in a certain way.  You encounter strangers in a certain way, and you experience routine in a certain way.  You have a certain fixed opinion of your role in this world, and you have a certain space for creativity and new idealisms.

Which of our rituals have real value, and which of our rituals do we appreciate for the beauty they truly hold?  Each of us acts on our idiosyncratic impulses with every decision we make, and each chooses according to the forseeable favourable outcomes of each potential choice.  The humour in life comes from the unforseeable, often unfavourable outcomes of each ritualistic gut-decision.  My most recent over-indulgence came in the form of a dozen or so cocktails, quickly, though in the context of a brilliant conversation.  Another point-of-view came when a newly-extinguished flame unwittingly brought her mother for a drink in the bar at which I work.
As we grow older our gut-decisions become ritualised, and we each devise a certain way of doing things from day to day, moment to moment, context to context.  Now a great fear exists in me, and that is of making decisions based on erroneous perceptions.  This can lead to a hestitancy in making decisions at all, and at worst a lack of knowledge of decisions that need to be made.  Recently I realised the beauty of sound sleep and privacy in a lifestyle of late nights and entertainment, and turned to my local green-grocer.  The result has been superb, and my sleep and dreams have been more pleasant than ever.

The recipe for a hot-buttered-rum is a simple one, and a simple one to modify.  My ritualistic night-cap is a simple twist on this, and suits those wishing to act with love in their final moments before dreaming, during dreaming, and upon waking, naked, with a smile upon their face, as God intended.

"Prophet's Delude"
60ml, or a good measure, of Bourbon Whiskey,
2-3tsp Rapadura, Muscovado, or Brown Sugar,
120ml Hot Water,
7.5ml Valerian Tincture,
2ccm Cocoa Butter.

Method:
Pre-heat a mug and add Bourbon, Sugar, Valerian, and near-boiling water. Stir in sugar, then layer Cocoa Butter on the surface of the drink and allow to melt. At this point the drink will be cool enough to sip - enjoy the rich chocolate aromas until then.

Sleep is an underrated tool for growth, and the valerian is the important constituent in this drink that encourages peaceful repose.  In my experience I've found that increasing the amount of Bourbon has accentuated the relaxing effects of the valerian, though I'm yet to discern exactly why this is.  Do not fear though, for I shall keep my ears pricked and wits keen for any clues.

Ritually.


Angus.